Slowing down for Turkish molasses
This essay appeared in the Fall 2013 issue of Gastronomica magazine. Click here for a pdf version. The heat doesn’t faze Sevim, my seventy-year-old mother-in-law, even though it’s already sweltering at six o’clock in the morning. ‘‘Buraya,’’ here, she says, dragging a stained neon-blue tarp under a tree heavy with mulberries. Twelve feet above, her …
